SailandOar
     
Syrinx   In Frame
Framework trued up

Centreboard Case Building
'Demon tweak' with the hot gun

Syrinx   Centreboard Case Fastened
Makes Camping Easier!

Syrinx   Fitting Plank 2
Spot the Third Hands

Syrinx   Last plank fastening
I'm just getting the 'hang' of this.

SYRINX   Last plank cleaning up
Just a messy half hour to go!

Syrinx   Camping
Kettle's on for tea

   Workshop
 Shearwater Building
 

Framework trued up


Some pictures of Shearwater building, some of them Syrinx, Sail & Oar`s demonstrator.

The framework is up, trued and everything fastened with bronze screws, but not yet glued.

Next, the centreboard case.  I reckon it`s best to build this before setting up, so you can fit it immediately after truing the framework.  Then get on with the planking.  That way there`s no temptation to skimp in order to start planking as soon as possible.

It is much more efficient to get the case in before planking.  Doing it later means sliding it down beside the keel and between Frames 2 & 3, with all the mating surfaces covered in glue, which wipes off most of the glue and results in a poor joint.  Never mind cutting the slot and making the bottom of the case to the correct, changing, angle to fit the garboard plank.  And the hole thro` the keel for the pivot.

Why have the keel on edge instead of flat like every other sensible English dinghy?  That`s much easier and works well, doesn`t it?
The answers are surprising, I think.

Firstly, it is more difficult to bend something edgewise - a knife is flexible side to side but not in the direction you cut.  So Shearwater`s keel is stiffer in the direction we want stiffness.

Secondly, compare Shearwater`s case-to-keel joint with the same joint to a flat keel.  With the keel on edge and the case fastened to its side, the keel supports the case against the sideways rotation imposed on it by the centreboard.  But if the case is fastened flat on top of the keel, as in every other dinghy I`ve ever seen, the sideways rotation tries to break the joint apart.  I have a Firefly - the Olympic dinghy class for the `48 Games - in for restoration.  It, like many other dinghies, has long had leaks around the centreboard case for just this reason.

So, no leaks.  But also no need for bracing.  This is normally done by fastening a thwart across the top of the case, and this makes the thwarts non removable.  I make Shearwater thwarts easily removable: just undo the butterfly nut from the carriage bolt at each end.  Makes cleaning out easier and gives lots of room for camping on board!


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Page Last Updated:
02/02/09


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